Los Angeles is a city of ghosts. Not the spooky kind, darling, but the shimmering, celluloid kind. They linger in the sun-drenched corners of old restaurants, cruise down the wide boulevards in phantom convertibles, and their whispers echo in the velvet-draped movie palaces. No one understands these beautiful ghosts better than Quentin Tarantino, and his 2019 masterpiece, Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, isn’t just a film; it’s a séance. It’s a resurrection of a very specific moment in time: the summer of 1969, when the golden age of Hollywood was fading, the counter-culture was blooming, and everything was about to change forever. The film is a sun-drenched, melancholic, and ultimately hopeful love letter to a city and an era. For travelers like us, who seek stories etched into the very pavement of the places we visit, the film provides a treasure map. It invites us to peel back the layers of modern L.A. and find the vibrant, electric, and slightly dangerous world of Rick Dalton, Cliff Booth, and Sharon Tate. This journey isn’t just about seeing where a movie was made. It’s about time travel. It’s about putting on your best pair of shades, turning up the radio, and cruising into the heart of a dream. It’s about finding the magic that still flickers in the City of Angels, a magic that Tarantino so lovingly captured, frame by gorgeous frame.
If you’re captivated by the idea of using film as a portal to the past, you might also enjoy a cinematic pilgrimage through François Truffaut’s Paris.
Stepping into the Frame: The Enduring Allure of Old Hollywood
To truly grasp the world of Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, you must begin where the deals were struck, where the stars held court, and where history hangs so thickly in the air you can almost taste it. This isn’t the L.A. of green juices and yoga studios; this is the L.A. of leather booths, stiff drinks, and whispered conversations. It’s the Hollywood that gave rise to Rick Dalton, and the one he fears is leaving him behind.
Musso & Frank Grill: Where Legends Drink
There’s no better place to start our journey than at the very heart of old Hollywood, Musso & Frank Grill on Hollywood Boulevard. When Rick Dalton (Leonardo DiCaprio) meets his agent Marvin Schwarzs (Al Pacino) to talk about his declining career, it’s more than just a scene; it’s a baptism into the sacred waters of Tinseltown lore. This establishment is an institution, a living museum open since 1919. Crossing its threshold feels like a cinematic dissolve—the noise and neon of the outside world fade away. You’re immediately wrapped in a warm amber glow from shaded lamps, the scent of aged wood paneling, and the soft clinking of ice in heavy glasses.
The scene was shot in one of the restaurant’s iconic red leather booths, the very kind that have cradled Hollywood royalty for decades. This is where Charlie Chaplin, Humphrey Bogart, and Marilyn Monroe were regulars. It’s where writers like F. Scott Fitzgerald and William Faulkner would revise scripts over a drink at the bar. Sitting in one of those booths, you can feel the weight and glamour of it all—you can almost hear the ghostly murmur of a hundred movie deals being struck, careers being made and broken.
My advice for visiting is simple: make a reservation, darling. This place is just as popular now as it was a century ago. Request a booth if possible, to capture the true Rick Dalton experience. The bartenders, clad in their signature red jackets, are experts in their craft. Order a classic Martini or, to fully channel the film, a Whiskey Sour. The menu is a delightful nod to the past, featuring classic American and continental dishes. It’s not about trendy fare; it’s about impeccably executed tradition. Here, the atmosphere is the main course. Take your time. Soak it all in. Notice how the light falls on the dark wood, listen to the soft hum of conversation. This is more than a meal—it’s a performance, and you’re part of the cast. It’s the perfect first stop to bring you into the mindset of 1969, a place that feels untouched by time’s passage.
Chasing the California Sun: On the Road with Cliff Booth
The soul of Once Upon a Time in Hollywood lives on the open road. The film is marked by long, beautiful sequences of Cliff Booth (Brad Pitt) cruising through the streets of Los Angeles in Rick’s baby blue Karmann Ghia. These drives are more than mere travel from one place to another; they serve as the connective tissue of the film’s story and aesthetic. They embody the freedom, vastness, and sun-bleached charm of Southern California. To truly follow the film’s path, you need to get behind the wheel.
The Freeways and Boulevards: A Cinematic Road Trip
Tarantino went to great lengths to faithfully recreate the driving experience of 1969. He captured the unique rhythm of L.A. traffic, the look of vintage cars, and the sound of KHJ radio blasting through the speakers. Following Cliff’s routes is one of the most immersive ways to step into the film’s world. Begin by cruising down Riverside Drive in the San Fernando Valley, a broad, palm-lined street that feels both suburban and quintessentially L.A. This is the backdrop of Cliff’s everyday life, far from Beverly Hills’ glamour.
Next, travel through the Cahuenga Pass, the key artery linking the Valley to Hollywood. Emerging on the other side, the iconic Capitol Records building comes into view—you are officially in Hollywood. The film features stunning scenes of Cliff driving down Hollywood Boulevard and Sunset Boulevard at dusk, with neon signs from famous landmarks like the Pussycat Theatre and the Cinerama Dome lighting up the sky in electric colors. Driving these same streets today, especially at sunset, is truly magical. Put on a ‘60s rock playlist, roll down the windows, and let the warm California air surround you. You’ll pass the very same buildings, the towering palm trees, and get a sense of the city’s expansive, cinematic landscape. It’s a feeling of pure, unfiltered cool—the essence of Cliff Booth himself.
Casa Vega: A Midnight Margarita Run
After a long day on set, Rick and Cliff often unwind at Casa Vega, a classic Mexican restaurant in Sherman Oaks. It’s here they share their final drinks before the film’s explosive climax. Established in 1956, Casa Vega is a San Fernando Valley institution, much like Musso & Frank, that feels wonderfully frozen in time. It’s dark, intimate, and its red leather booths have witnessed it all. The restaurant has long been a favorite refuge for celebrities escaping the Hollywood hustle, and Tarantino’s choice to film here pays tribute to its authentic, old-school vibe.
Visiting Casa Vega today is a pleasure. As you step inside, your eyes adjust to the cozy dimness, punctuated by the soft glow of candles and colorful string lights. The atmosphere is lively, a vibrant mix of families, couples on dates, and friends sharing pitchers of their famously strong margaritas. This is the kind of place where you settle in for the night. Grab a booth, order a combo plate piled high with enchiladas and tacos, and of course, treat yourself to a margarita. It’s the perfect spot to unwind after a day of exploring, to sit back and imagine Rick and Cliff in that corner booth, recounting the day’s events. It feels genuine, lived-in, and wonderfully unpretentious—a true slice of Valley life, then and now.
The Golden Age Glow: Sharon Tate’s Hollywood Dream
In contrast to the anxieties of Rick and Cliff, Sharon Tate’s (Margot Robbie) world shines bright with hope and radiance. Her storyline serves as a beautiful, poignant tribute to both the real actress and the promising future her life held. Her Los Angeles is bathed in sunshine, filled with music, parties, and the pure joy of a career blossoming. Following her journey invites us to explore some of the Westside’s most iconic and charming locations.
The Bruin and Fox Village Theatres: A Star Observes Herself Shine
One of the most heartwarming and genuinely joyful scenes in the entire film occurs when Sharon Tate, on a whim, decides to see her own movie, The Wrecking Crew. She stops at the box office of the Bruin Theatre in Westwood Village, shyly identifies herself, and poses for a photo beneath the marquee. Inside, she sits barefoot with her feet propped up on the seat in front of her, watching her performance with sincere delight, smiling warmly at the audience’s laughter. This moment captures profound innocence and happiness.
The scene was filmed on location at the actual Bruin Theatre and its grander counterpart just across the street, the Fox Village Theatre. These two cinematic landmarks are architectural treasures. The Fox, with its distinctive white Spanish-Moorish tower, has been a fixture since 1931, while the Bruin, known for its wraparound marquee, opened in 1937. Westwood Village itself is like a small slice of classic California, a quaint college town near UCLA. Visiting these theaters is essential. Both remain operational, showing first-run films. Standing at that street corner, gazing at the two marquees, instantly transports you into the film. The best way to experience it, naturally, is to purchase a ticket. Sit inside the Bruin, look up at the screen, and imagine Sharon Tate a few rows away, her face illuminated by the projector’s glow. It’s a beautiful homage to the magic of cinema and the joy it brings.
El Coyote Spanish Cafe: The Last Supper
This location carries a heavy historical weight. El Coyote, a sprawling and lively Mexican restaurant on Beverly Boulevard, is where Sharon Tate and her friends Jay Sebring, Wojciech Frykowski, and Abigail Folger shared their final meal on the night of August 8, 1969. Tarantino recreates this scene with a delicate and respectful approach, showing the group laughing and enjoying their evening, blissfully unaware of the tragedy ahead. The film’s alternate history allows us to remember the night as just another cheerful outing, imbuing the site with bittersweet poignancy.
El Coyote has been a beloved Los Angeles fixture since 1931, famous for its affordable prices, strong margaritas, and colorful, kitschy décor. Stepping inside feels like entering a never-ending fiesta. The sprawling rooms are decorated with velvet paintings, piñatas, and Christmas lights that remain up year-round. Many staff members have worked there for decades and treat everyone like family. Visiting El Coyote is a quintessential L.A. experience. The atmosphere is lively, cheerful, and unpretentious. While the historical context is somber, the restaurant itself celebrates life. Ordering a margarita and cheesy enchiladas here feels like an act of defiance against the darkness of the past. It’s a place to honor the memories of Sharon Tate and her friends by embracing the joy and vibrancy they represented.
Recreating a Lost Era: The Magic of Movie-Making
Not all of 1969 L.A. remains intact today. Much of the city has changed, been demolished, or modernized. A significant part of the film’s success lies in how Tarantino’s production team painstakingly recreated the past, transforming entire city blocks to realize their vision. This element of the pilgrimage is about valuing the artistry and commitment behind the film.
Hollywood Boulevard Reimagined
Today’s Hollywood Boulevard is a busy mix of tourist shops, street performers, and contemporary storefronts. To depict the 1969 version for the film, the production team undertook a massive effort. They spent weeks collaborating with local businesses to redress over a mile of the street. They fashioned historically accurate facades for long-gone establishments like Peaches Records & Tapes, the original Pussycat Theatre, and Wallichs Music City. Hundreds of vintage cars were brought in, and extras were outfitted in period-appropriate clothing to complete the illusion. The result is one of the most impressive achievements in production design in recent memory. While the full 1969 transformation isn’t visible today, walking down Hollywood Boulevard with stills from the movie in hand is a captivating exercise. You can stand at certain corners and see how a modern bank was turned into a vintage record store, or how a souvenir shop was transformed into a classic cinema. It offers a deep appreciation for the magic of Hollywood—not just as a place, but as an industry capable of bending time itself.
The Cinerama Dome: A Futurist Dream
This striking, futuristic movie theater on Sunset Boulevard is a true architectural icon. Opened in 1963, the Cinerama Dome was the world’s first and only geodesic dome cinema, designed specifically for the widescreen Cinerama process. It features prominently in the film, its distinctive white panels and glowing sign symbolizing Hollywood’s “New Wave.” It embodies the future Rick Dalton feels is slipping away from him. Although the theater closed during the pandemic, there is strong hope and public support for its reopening. For now, visitors can still admire its exterior. It stands as a bold example of mid-century modern design—a concrete symbol of the era’s optimism and technological ambition. Standing before it, one can sense the excitement of 1960s movie-going, when a trip to the cinema was a grand occasion. It remains a cherished landmark and a symbol of cinematic innovation that many hope will shine on Sunset Boulevard once again.
The Van Nuys Drive-In: A Bygone Experience
Cliff Booth’s modest home is a trailer parked behind the Van Nuys Drive-In theater, perfectly reflecting his transient, fringe-dweller lifestyle, just on the edge of Hollywood glamour. The drive-in was once a staple of American life, especially in car-centric Southern California. The specific Van Nuys Drive-In used in the film has since been demolished, a fate shared by most of L.A.’s original drive-ins. However, Tarantino’s inclusion of it serves as a heartfelt tribute to this lost form of entertainment. For those wanting to capture that feeling, a few drive-ins remain open in the greater Los Angeles area, such as the Mission Tiki Drive-In in Montclair. Visiting one on a warm evening is a wonderful experience. There’s nothing quite like watching a movie from the comfort of your car under a vast, starry sky, with the sound coming through your radio. It’s a nostalgic experience that connects you to the era and the laid-back vibe of Cliff’s world.
The Dark Side of the Dream: The Spahn Ranch Confrontation
The film’s simmering tension finally erupts when Cliff Booth visits the Spahn Movie Ranch, the desolate, dusty home of the Manson Family. This scene is a masterclass in suspense, transforming the bright California sun into something threatening and oppressive. It serves as a stark reminder of the darkness lurking beneath the idyllic surface of the late 1960s.
Corriganville Movie Ranch: The Real-Life Set
The original Spahn Ranch was destroyed by a wildfire in 1970, and the land has since been redeveloped. To recreate this essential location, Tarantino selected Corriganville Park in Simi Valley. This site carries its own rich Hollywood history, having served as a backlot for numerous Western films and TV shows from the 1930s through the 1960s. The rocky, arid terrain and remnants of old film sets provided the perfect eerie backdrop for the Manson Family’s compound.
Today, Corriganville is a public park where visitors can explore the exact spot where these tense scenes were shot. It’s a place for hiking and discovery, with trails winding through dramatic sandstone formations. Historical markers throughout the park highlight its cinematic past. As you walk along the dusty paths, you can easily identify the film’s locations. The atmosphere is quiet and slightly wild; the sun beats down, the air is dry, and there’s a tangible sense of isolation and off-the-grid feeling that Tarantino captured so effectively. It’s a fascinating, somewhat unsettling setting that reveals a different side of the Hollywood experience, far removed from the glamour of the boulevards.
Living Like Rick Dalton: The Hollywood Hills Hideaway
At the pinnacle of the Hollywood food chain, both literally and figuratively, stands Rick Dalton’s home in the Hollywood Hills, situated on the now-infamous Cielo Drive. This location plays a central role in the film’s plot and its reimagining of history.
Cielo Drive: A Tale of Two Houses
In the film, Rick Dalton resides at 10050 Cielo Drive, right next door to Sharon Tate and Roman Polanski. This, of course, is a fictional device. The actual house where the tragic events took place was 10050 Cielo Drive, which was demolished in 1994. The film uses a different nearby property for Rick’s house and cleverly films around the area to create the illusion that the two homes are close to each other. The neighborhood itself, nestled high in the winding hills above Benedict Canyon, is as exclusive and beautiful as depicted in the film. The narrow, curving roads are lined with lush greenery and stunning homes offering breathtaking views of the city below. Driving through here gives a sense of the secluded, privileged world the characters inhabit. It’s important to remember that this is a private, residential area. Visitors should be extremely respectful, driving slowly and avoiding disturbing the residents. It is not a place for morbid tourism, but rather a spot to quietly appreciate the setting and reflect on the film’s powerful, fairy-tale ending, where heroes live next door and manage to save the day.
Your Ultimate “Once Upon a Time” Itinerary
Ready to dive in? Here’s a simple plan to help you organize your time-traveling journey through 1969 Los Angeles.
A Day in Hollywood & the Valley
Start your morning with a drive. Begin in the Valley and cruise along Riverside Drive before passing through the Cahuenga Pass into Hollywood, just like Cliff. Feel the city come alive around you. Spend the late morning on Hollywood Boulevard. Admire the exterior of Musso & Frank Grill, then stroll along the boulevard, trying to spot the locations transformed for the film. For lunch, there’s no better choice than Musso & Frank. Make that reservation, settle into a red leather booth, and order a classic cocktail. In the afternoon, head to Sunset Boulevard to see the iconic Cinerama Dome. As evening nears, return to the Valley for dinner at Casa Vega. Relax with margaritas and Mexican comfort food—the perfect way to end a day steeped in movie history.
A Day on the Westside & Beyond
Begin your second day in charming Westwood Village. Grab a coffee and spend some time admiring the architecture of the Bruin and Fox Village Theatres. Imagine yourself as Sharon Tate, enjoying a sunny day in the city. For lunch, drive east on Beverly Boulevard to El Coyote. Soak up the lively, festive atmosphere and raise a toast to the film’s vibrant spirit. In the afternoon, switch up the scenery. Head out to Simi Valley to explore Corriganville Park. Hike the dusty trails and discover the filming locations used for the Spahn Ranch scenes. It’s a wonderful way to experience the natural landscape that has served as the backdrop for many Hollywood productions. As the sun sets, conclude your day with a scenic drive through the Hollywood Hills and Benedict Canyon. Find a safe spot to pull over, gaze out at the twinkling city lights below, and appreciate the beautiful, complex, and utterly magical tapestry of Los Angeles.
A Love Letter to a Time and Place
Journeying through the filming locations of Once Upon a Time in Hollywood is more than mere sightseeing. It is an immersion into Quentin Tarantino’s stunning, bittersweet fantasy. It involves exploring a city that constantly reinvents itself yet never truly forgets its history. You find yourself standing on a street corner that exists simultaneously in three time periods: how it was in 1969, how it is today, and how it was imagined for the film. The ghosts of Hollywood linger everywhere—in the leather of a worn restaurant booth, in the flicker of a neon sign, in the lyrics of a song playing on the radio. This pilgrimage invites you to encounter them. It offers a chance to step through the silver screen and into a California dream, one that, thanks to this beautiful film, will endure forever.
